I've been watching and learning, here in La Canourgue, for three months now, and I've noticed a few things that the folks around here seem to adore. These are generalizations, of course, and I'm sure that with time, I'll discover that it's not true of everyone, but for the time being - a few Things That French People Love.
Cantaloupe: For some reason, the French adore cantaloupe melons. It's called "melon", as if cantaloupe are the only melons cultivated to be consumed by the masses. I rarely see watermelons in the store or at the market, and honeydews seem to be non-existent. There are occasionally some weird-looking African yellow-y things in the supermarket, but by and large, cantaloupe is the melon of choice. In the summer, it seems, no picnic or barbeque or quiet lunch at home is complete without this orange fruit sliced and served to each person. They eat it as a first course, and everyone exclaims with pleasure how sweet (but not too sweet) and delicious it is ... I have eaten so much cantaloupe this summer that I would be perfectly happy to never encounter it ever again. There is a huge one reposing on my kitchen table as I write this, a gift from the melon vendor whose table sits beside my front door every market day. I know my husband will happily suggest cutting into this piece of fruit when he gets home from work for his midday break, and I will smile, and say, of course, and eat it, and try very hard to enjoy it. Maybe a love for it will eventually sink in? I am living in hope.
Peanuts: Do you like peanuts? I've always considered them to be sort of the poor cousins of the nut family. You eat them when all the other nuts in the mixed nuts can are gone. Or you crush them up and use them to garnish pad thai. Or, best of all, you can pulverize them and mix in a little oil and sugar to create peanut butter, one of the best substances known to man. Not so in France. Here, you go to someone's house for dinner, and bam! The bag of peanuts comes out. Everyone happily digs in and eats them by the handful as an appetizer. There are crackers, potato chips, and things that look like Cheetos, but are peanut-flavored. (Yuck, by the way.) If you bring a bag of mixed nuts (this is if you can find one in the store) to the party, the peanuts are winkled out and eaten first! It boggles the mind. And, as I may have mentioned before - no peanut butter. It is, quite literally, an unknown quantity here. The "exotic foods" section of the grocery store might have a jar or two available, but it will inevitably be the extra-super-chunky variety that consists of mostly chopped-up peanuts and hardly any "butter" to be going on with. I have no idea where the love of plain peanuts came from, but it is bewildering. A country noted for its love of food and cooking, and most of its denizens think peanuts are an appropriate snack. I just don't know. Also, the French word for peanut is "cacahuete", and, you know, being American, I don't like to eat things that have "caca" in the name.
Peach iced tea: I was excited to find bottled and canned iced tea available in France. I thought I would be making my own sun tea, if I wanted this particular beverage, and was pleased to see that wouldn't always be necessary. But ... if you don't like peach flavoring, you're up shit creek on this one. Fortunately, I do! Just about every grocery chain has a house brand for bottled beverages - soda, juice, etc. And apparently, for the French, "iced tea" and "peach" are inseparable. (I have seen a few bottles of mango iced tea here and there, but never in any quantity, and always with the word "nouveau" - new - prominently featured on the label.) There is even an iced tea syrup available (I have a bottle in my own kitchen, in fact) that you just add water to and, voila!, a delicious iced tea beverage is waiting for your consumption. However, it is always peach iced tea syrup. Never lemon, never raspberry, never plain. Perhaps I should contact some beverage manufacturers here and suggest the lemon, raspberry, or mint options? If Lipton doesn't get in ahead of me, I might be able to open up whole new vistas in the French ready-made beverage market.
Outdoor activities: I come from a very suburban/urban area of the U.S. When people there have leisure time, they generally go to the movies, or shopping, or to an amusement park. Maybe they head to a public park with some friends for a summertime cookout. In this part of the world (the least-populated area of France, actually),though, when people have down time, they head outdoors. Hiking, biking, camping, swimming, canoeing ... I imagine there are places in the U.S. where this is the case, as well - I just never lived in any of them. My husband and I spend countless hours in our yard, gardening, mucking out the stream that flows through it, and inviting people over to barbeque and eat al fresco. And I've learned to be careful when someone invites me on "une petite balade" ("a little walk") ... because, depending upon the person, that could mean a hike of twenty kilometers through the mountainous terrain that surrounds us, or it could mean a short stroll to the outskirts of town and back. You just never know, and it appears that you should be prepared for either outcome when you accept their offer. I am hoping that, with time, my mind reading abilities become better and I will know when I should bring water, sunscreen, and Power Bars along for "a little walk". I'm sure I'll get there some day - and I'll probably be walking, when I do.
Meat: First, there's saucisson. It's a kind of dried sausage, kind of like pepperoni. You slice off little pieces and eat it with bread or by itself. The people around here eat it all the time, and there are an infinite number of varieties. I have no real idea exactly what goes into the making of these things, but they taste fantastic (despite the sort of vague feet-like aroma before you cut into them). Then, of course, there are pates and terrines and mousses. All made out of some sort of meat (usually organ meat, like livers) and sometimes veggies, like mushrooms or onions, and molded into a sort of loaf that you then slice hunks off of and spread on bread. Again, delicious. Think of it sort of as meat jelly or jam - makes a great sandwich. So, these are the before-the-meal meat products, and then you move on to the entree portion of your lunch or dinner, which is always ... surprise! More meat. Sausages - pork or lamb, usually - or perhaps pork chops, or thin beef steaks. Maybe a roasted chicken - boneless, skinless chicken breasts are not very popular here. Sometimes people will have turkey steaks or perhaps a piece of fish (usually salmon, unfortunately). But always, always, the main course around these parts is meat. Here is the crazy part: I've never, since I've been here, seen anyone marinate a piece of meat. There is this little packet of dry herbs that comes with any steak or chop you buy in the market that most folks will rub on the meat before they cook it, but that's it! (And it always consists of mostly rosemary. Mom, watch out.) I made an herb butter with some fresh chives and parsley last week to put on some steaks I was broiling for dinner for myself and my husband, and he looked horrified as I applied it to the meat prior to putting it in the oven. Thank God I had rejected the balsamic vinaigrette and shallot marinade that was my other idea - he might have left the house, and me, upon seeing that perpetrated on a steak he intended to eat. I have been afraid to broach the subject of marinating with my new French friends - it seems so universally neglected that I feel sure there is some big, glaring reason for NOT doing it that I haven't yet discovered. I will continue, of course, to marinate in the privacy of my own home, but in front of others ... rosemary, anyone?
I discover new things every day, and will continue to parade those things past all of you. Thanks for reading and sharing in my adventures!
Pronunciation Guide:
melon: meh-LOW(n)
cacahuete: ka-ka-WEHT
nouveau: noo-VOH
voila: vwah-LAH
une petite balade: ewn puh-TEET bah-LAHD
saucisson: so-see-SOHN
pate: pah-TAY
terrine: teh-REEN
4 comments:
Hi! It's so fun to read about your life in La Lozere because it sounds so interesting and different from La Touraine!! Have you gotten to travel w/in the country? I only did a little bit because it's so expensive...but was amazed at how every region is like it's own litte country with different traditions and foods. I never noticed the love of peanuts, but pistachios are everywhere, even in ice cream. In Tours you find Rillettes and also tripes (nasty, intestines!!) How is the wine? What type is common to drink there? But yeah canteloupes, omg, and even sometimes with jambon de bayonne inside. :)
I loathe and despise cantaloupe so I'd be screwed if I were in your shoes. =) But I'm a big fan of meat so I suppose there are trade offs.
I'm going to ask my best friend Scott about the no marinating thing for you. He's a chef and knows all. =) I'll let you know what he says!
Deb
Ahah, your blog is very enjoyable! I am French, married to an American and leaving in the US. Yes, I miss the melon and saucisson (I can find some somewhat close Italian salami, fortunately, and Trader Joe's has a few pates) and indeed, I have never marinated meat in my life :-) I am come from Lyon.
Sylvie
When I was at Agnes Scott they'd have an international photo contest every year, where people who had studied or traveled abroad were encouraged to submit photos with a caption, judged more on content than artsiness. One year a winner was a photo of a peanut butter sandwich with mayo, lettuce, and tomato. Yum! A girl had been living with a host family in France, and expressed her nostalgia for PB sandwiches, so her host mom searched high and low for it and surprised her with the sandwich. :)
Also, Justine and I really want to visit you... bad idea for a vegetarian? Maybe I'll bring some tofu along. Good thing I like bread and cheese!
-Lizzy
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